All that's left to do now is hot-glue the beak to the mask (17) Now that that's out of the way, we can get back to making those ridges. How you make them is up to but we found that the best material to use is something with a bit of thickness to it but still easy to cut and trim. The pink insulation foam fits the bill perfectly, but you could just as easily use corrugate cardboard. After deciding on what material you want to use, cut out a circle about 5 in diameter. Within this circle, draw out another circle about 4 in diame- ter and then cut it in half Cut out the smaller half circle from both halves (21). You should now be left with two half-circle strips about ½" wide. Take these and hot glue them onto the mask (22). Using your modelling knife, cut off the raised you, Hooray! The mask has been built! Now let's start adding a few de- 17 Adding Detail In most of the pictures we found of plague doc tor masks, they feature a long groove running along both sides of the beak. To do this, we first need to mark out where we want the groove on the beak. You can do this a couple of ways you can make a simple template out of paper (18a) or draw the outline on yourself free hand. We ended up doing a combination of the two (18b). Once you have the area marked out start pushing in the foam within the marked area with your fingers or butt end of your Sharpie 21 corners to give them a more rounded look 18 Coating ano ealing The mask's almost done, but so far it still looks like a hockey mask with a styrofoam cone glued to it. Let's fix that now. Break out your tub of plaster or spackle and 1Ogive the beak a good lathering of the stuff (23). Try to get a good, even coverage over al「 of the foam, but don't worry about covering the plastic of the mask (24) Now we want to add some boney ridges around the eyes to give the face some detail. Before we can do 23 we need to do something about the gaps left where the beak meets the mask. Cut off a couple of chunks from the left over styrofoam scraps from earlier and hot-glue them into the gaps (20). Shove them inoo the gaps as tightly as you can. Once the foam's in place, start pressing the foam in until it's flush with the rest of the beak. Don't worry about being gentle with the foam here. tends to absorb paint and the mask itself is flexible enough that the plaster would just crack off once it's dry. When you're done coating the mask with the plaster, leave the mask to dry for a few hours. There's a lot on there, so you may have to leave it overnight. Once its dry, take a sheet of the 220-grade sand-paper and sand the plaster as smooth as you can get it. 20

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them together (1) Wuilding the Weak Now that you have the The large bird-like beak of plague doctor's mask is the three pieces angled the piece's focal point, so we need to make sure that we way you want them, it's get it right. We'll be using the styrofoam cone for the time to attach them to basis of our mask's beak. The cone that we got was one another. Use your a bit too large for our tastes, but it's better to have too much than not enough. Using your hobby knife, cut the pieces together (12), about 2/2" off of the base and about off of the tip. but try to keep the glue Don't throw the scraps away! We'll be using them ear the center. Other- shortly! Press the wide end of the hot glue gun to adhere wise the glue near the edges will get in the way when you to add derail later cone against the mask, pushing it in just enough so that the nose of the mask leaves an impres- sion into the styrofoam. If the styrofoam obstructs any of the eye slots, cut just enough of the foam away so that there's nothing in the way (6). Using your modelling knife, start to carve out some of the foa the base of the cone (7), otherwise you won't be able to breath! Okay, we now have the rough outline of our beak ready (13), but there are noticable gaps that we need to ill. Break off a couple of pieces of the pink insulation foam or cut off some sizable chunks off of the cone scraps large enough to completely fit into the gaps and hot glue them into place (14). Hack off whatever excess foam sticks out with your hobby knife, but be careful not to start cutting chunks out of beak. Don't worry 7 Now the tricky part: we're going to give our cone a downward- sloping curve. To do this, cut the cone into three segments, about 5 long each (8). Lay a large sheet of the 150-grade sandpaper onto a flat surface and start rub bing the wide bases of the foam segments at an angle (9) until the pieces align together at an angle of your liking (10) We recomend making some markings on the pieces with your Sharpie so you can properly align them when you glue 8too much about it looking pretty at this point as you don't have to be perfedct (15). Take a piece of the 150 grade sand paper and rub down the foam until i forms a smooth, continu ous slope (16). While you're at it, round out the tip. You may want to consider doing this outside. 10

Step 1

fflaterials 떠seb preparing the flask The first thing we need to do is get the mask prepped for the rest of the project. Comparing our hockey mask to images of other plague doctor masks, we see that our mask's eyes are too narrow, so we need to widen them. The easiest way to do this is make a circular Measure the width of the eye slots (1) and then draw out a circle of roughly the same diame- ter on a piece of paper (2). Cut the circle out, Simple plastic mask w/strap (look for something that apply your new eye slor covers the entire face, like a hockey mask) 177/8" x47/8" Styrofoam cone (used in floral template to the mask and, using your Sharpie, mark out the areas that Some scrap pieces of 1/2" pink insulation foam) eed to be removed (3). Spackle or plaster Hot glue gun w/ glue sticks White glue (preferably the type that leaves a matte A dremel rotary tool w/sanding bit attachment A few sheets of 150 grade and 220 grade sand Some newspaper A hobby knife A black SharpieT ·Pens, pencils and paper Superglue, Zip Kicker Some think card stock (like a cereal box) Scissors Paint 3 Attach the sanding bit to your rotary tool and start to sand away the excess plastic from the inside out (4). Be careful to stay within the lines so that your eyes don't end up being lop-sided. Take a piece of the 150-grade sandpaper and clean up the rough edges around the eye slots. When You finish, lightly rub When making our mask, we used a variety of materi- als, most of which you can find at your local arts and crafts shop. You may have trouble finding a good, sturdy mask to build on in a crafts store, so try looking for one in a costume shop. 4 (8*)You can buy sheets of pink insulation foam from places like Home Depot or Lowes, but you honestly won't need very much so buying a huge sheet of of the stuff isn't necessary. If you're I scraps at a construction site. If you just can't get your hands on the any, don't worry as it's not a critical com- ponent. We'll describe alternative ways to complete steps involving the pink stuff. find a the mask with the same grade sandpaper (5). This will help materials to stick to the mask better. 5

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